Indian silk has been popular the world over - for its sheer variety of designs, weaving and quality. This is largely due to the fact that India has the unique distinction of producing different varieties of silk.

There are four main varieties of silk produced by a distinct variety of silkworm feeding on a specific host plant. Silk is a protien fibre, produced by the silkworm for spinning around its cocoon. This fibre (filament) is unwound to obtain silk. Yarn is produced by twisting the fibre, which is then dyed, warped and finally woven to produce fabric.

Silk weavers in India have contributed to the development and fame of Indian silk. Across the length and breadth of the country, generations of weavers continue to create magic giving their creations a distinct touch - through the use of colours and designs.

Here are some traditional "types" of Indian silk available at Rasi.

The glamour of the Kancheepuram silk saree lies in its colour contrasts. Pyramidical temple borders, checks, stripes and floral "buttas" are traditional designs you will find in a Kancheepuram saree. In a genuine Kancheepuram saree, the border, body and pallav are woven separately and then interlocked together. The joint is woven so strongly that even if the saree tears, the pallav (or border) will not detach.

Found in Gujrat and Rajasthan, Bandhni is produced through an ancient method called "bandhej" or tie and dye. Designs are created on natural colour cloth by tightly winding thread around certain areas. The cloth is then dipped in dye. The thread is removed and the areas covered by the thread retain their original colour. Hence the name "tie & dye". Multiple colour designs are created by repeating this process.

Ikkat (also known as patola in Orissa) is also created using the tie & dye method. The difference is that the method is applied to the yarn prior to weaving - and hence a far more complex procedure. There are two - one where the method is applied to the warp only, and the other where it is done on both the warp and weft. In the latter, the fabric can be used on either side. Andhra Pradesh, Gujrat and Orissa are the main centers for this kind of work.

This is a method of weaving unique to Benaras - silk fabric is woven to create a raised effect (brocade). These sarees do not have a border, however the pallav is distinctly different. Traditionally, the designs are created using floral motifs.

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Whether you're buying a saree, or fabric, here are some tips on what to look for when buying silk.

• When you consider the fact that it takes three weavers approximately 7 to 10 days to weave one saree (46" X 168"), it is not surprising that silk is expensive. Watch out for "throw away" priced silk - it's unlikely to be the real thing.
• Check the weight - the heavier the silk, the longer it will last.
• If there is zari work, ask if the zari is pure. Imitation zari will turn black in a couple of years. Incidentaly, "pure gold" zari is a misnomer - it is not gold thread but has at its core a silk thread over which silver wire is twisted and then dipped in gold.
• The best way of checking for purity of silk is to take a few threads and burn them. Pure silk will coagulate and leave a black powdery residue - not to be confused with ash. You will also find a faintly unpleasant odour.
• Of-course, your best bet always, will be to buy silk from a reliable and established outlet.

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Contrary to popular belief, good silk is not difficult to maintain. Caring for silk is simple - and if done properly, will last for years! Here's how -

• The best way of washing silk is the tried and tested traditional way. Just squeeze a few drops of lime in cold water. Dip the silk and rub gently, remove, wring lightly and dry away from direct sunlight.
• If using soap, make sure it's mild. Use cold water and do not soak silk in soap water. Dip, rub gently, rinse and dry in the shade.
• Avoid the use of chemicals - these may damage your silk, and end up reducing its life considerable.

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